Sunday 26 July 2020

A 2020 Western Summer Staycation: Part 1



 After a good winter of skiing until Covid struck, everything shut down until the provincial parks opened June 1st. Normally, after the ski hill shuts down in early April, we head south to the Colorado Plateau.
     Not this year. Ski hill shut down 1 month early and the US border closed shortly after that in early April. Kept cross country skiing for another month after the hill closed due to great snow, then started hiking, road riding and Mountain biking.
May 10th, we sat behind the computer with thousands of other BC residents as we vied for camping spots in  the provincial parks that were to be available starting June 1st. We had more or less planned the month of June with a day to day itinerary(subject to change do to weather, injury, sickness etc) and from there we would wing it until October. All of our original plans of hiking and biking in Europe had to be cancelled and put on hold.
After climbing over the Petite St Bernard pass from France(August/2017), Pat stops to look back at the Mt. Blanc massif   and to where Courmayour sits just below mountains in the background. We had booked a hotel in Courmayeur  which is on the hiking route for the Mt. Blanc Massif traverse(August/2020). From here, the  cycling route takes you through  Aoste and then up over the Grand St. Bernard Pass and then back down to Martigny giving us a nice road traverse of the Mt Blanc Massif.


Our original plan was to fly to Zurich (August/2020) with our touring bikes and all of our luggage, leave the boxed bikes at the hotel and then take a train to Chamonix where we would start an 8 day hiking traverse of the Mt Blanc massif on August 6th. Following this hike, we would jump onto the Walkers Haute route which goes from Chamonix to Zermatt for another 10 day hike. From there, take the train back to Zurich, put our bikes together and start a 6 week tour of moutainous Austria and then to Sardenia. Like so many others, we had to cancel this trip for another year getting refunds for the hotels on the hiking routes and credit from the refugios for a future hike.




Taking a rest at the Wiwaxy Gap after hiking up from Lake O'hara. Lake Oesa in the background. Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada

Pat and Dave half way up the "Holey Pail" climb trail at the Smith Creek Mountain Bike Trails, Kelowna, BC

Hiking up the ridge in Ellison PP looking down at Okanagan  Lake
Riding the 60 km loop from Okanagan Falls which is part of the Penticton Ironman cycle loop March/2020

 On top of Spien Kop looking down Okanagan Lake. Started from Woods Lake. Maybe a 2 hour round trip moving fast.

 Looking out on the many orchards south towards Kelowna from Spien Kop. Provincial Parks are still closed and we can't cross the border so we spend our time hiking, biking, paddling, skiing locally. Still lots of snow on the local mountains.
 Pat mountain biking at Knox Mountain, Kelowna, BC in March.  
Road riding a 70km loop from Armstrong. Sitting having lunch in Enderby. Pat has her road bike and Dave is with his touring bike used for European mountain touring. Very low MTB gearing, disc brakes, heavy duty, no flats tires, perfect for Tour de France type mountain riding.

Pat riding up the climb trail at the South Canoe MTB trails. Still lots of snow in March. We are crossing the FSR(forest service road) looking for the single track under all that snow.

Pushing through the snow on the Mo Buddha trail. Every week we can climb higher as the snow recedes.
Dave taking a small break at the Provincial Park sign on the way up Silver Star Mountain, a 2 hour climb from our place. Yes, that is a pile of snow where the bike is parked.
Back to the South Canoe Bike trails trying to avoid some serious mud on "Paranoia Left".
A short hike behind our house takes you up to a knoll where you can get a good view of the valley. It is the spring and everything is very green. Okanagan Lake is in the forground with Swan Lake just to the right. The city of Vernon is laid out below. Terrace Mountain(6600') is in the background.
This is a view shot from Oyama Lookout, a 4 hour return, 3500' vertical hike that started at the Twisted Sisters MTB trailhead. Kalamalka Lake is in the foreground. Part of Vernon, BC is near the lake.
The Provincial Parks have just opened June 1st due to Covid19. Normally, Okanagan South, where we are camped, opens early April. Here is Pat in our 17' Hellman canoe on Okanagan Lake. Lake still very cool, with snow still in the high country.

Ahhhh! Steaks, wine and camping. What else does a guy need? Don't answer that.(Okanagan North Provincial Park)
We are using a propane fire ring after more than 50 years of burning wood due to limited or banned wood fires at campgrounds, smoke, and of course it is so much more convenient. And also the fact that Pat stays up around the fire longer when in the past because of the smoke, she would head off to bed early leaving Dave all alone.

MTB at Rose Valley, West Kelowna. Doing a big loop. Climbed from the bottom to the ridge looking down at Okanagan Lake.

Kelowna waterfront across the lake.
So after a 3 hour MTB ride, Pat has to pole run/hike up to the ridge for an hour to get in her training hours for the day.
Back to Smith Creek climbing up "Holy Pail" climb trail to the top then the downhill run to the truck on "Feel the Love".
Nice views across the Okanagan Lake and Kelowna.
After a few beverages after biking, time to sit around and tell tall tales.
Todays MTB is up Conkle Mtn., near Summerland. Here is Pat on her way up "Full Frontal" to the top starting from the trailhead not too far from the "The Giants Head".
Getting near the top with the town of Summerland below.
Nice views of the orchards around Summerland and Okanagan Lake.
From the top, it is a wild run down Conkle Bonk, then right on Midline which traverses steep slopes back to the orginal trailhead.
Here is Pat training on Campbell Mtn, Penticton, BC. As an elite cross country ski racer who competes all over the Nordic world, she usually takes one day off a week. Today, it is 2 hours of jogging mixed with 4 minute sprints up hill. Tough on Dave who is not in the same shape.
When everyday is exercise of some kind, sometimes for 1 hour, sometimes for 11 hours(extreme hiking), food and drink are pretty important. Here we are crushing some enchaladas and wine around the fire.
Todays ride will be at Three Blind Mice MTB area near Naramata, BC. We are camped at OK Falls PP campground. This is BIL Tom with Pat at the parking area on the Kettle Valley Rail Trail. We will climb steeply at first on the Yellow Brick Road until we get to the top in close to 1 1/2 hours. Tom and his girl friend Cathy have E-Bikes which allows them to keep up to us, or so they claim.
Taking a short snack break on a rocky area of "Fred". Cathy has had a few minor crashes on the downhill runs. These are all blue runs but have tricky rocky spots.

Tom hiking up on the "Rock Ovens". We started hiking at the Skaha Bluffs rock climbing area. Penticton and Okanagan Lake in the background.
A view of the valley on the trail that leads from our house just below this photo. Oyama Lookout is on the higher hills in the background. Silver Star mountain ski area is to the left out of the photo, a 15 minute drive.
Pat checking out the beach scene at Ellison PP where we will be camping for a week. Son Shane, Leah, Paxton, Arden will also be with us in their trailer plus Leahs dad Tom and girlfriend Cathy.
Grand daughter Paxi ready to start paddling from the beach at Ellison PP.
Son Shane,  wife Leah and Paxi getting ready for a paddle down the lake on a warm and sunny early  summer day on Okanagan Lake. Grandaughter Ardi is back at the trailer being looked after by Pat.
Cathy paddling off on he paddle board with boyfriend Tom close behind out of sight, as they race to catch up to the canoes.
Heading along a main pathway at Kalamalka Lake PP looking down at Cosens Bay. We lived next to this 8000 acre park for 12 years and most days we would walk, jog, run,ride, swim around some of the many trails and beaches. Later in the season, these green fields will turn yellow or brown from the summer sun.
Nana, with 3 of the 4 grandkids. Bailie, Ronen from Smithers and Paxi from Vernon.
Looking down at Enderby from Memorial Mtn, a hike of around 3500', 14km return. You can barely see Mara Lake in the background with the Shuswap river running through the valley. We started at Armstrong which is just out of sight to the left.

Drove over to Cranbrook from Vernon to start a 3 week staycation in the Kootenay region. This is our campsite at Jim Smith PP just out of Cranbrook.

We had't riddin Cranbrook before so decided to start behind the college on Roller Coaster then onto a circuit of Bonehead then onto Forest Grove, College Way then back to the truck. This is Pat on a flat area of Bonehead.
There is a 26km paved Northstar Rails to Trails path between Cranbrook and Kimberley. Pat wanted to do some roller ski training so she took off from the Collinson Road parking area, going 10km out and then back for 20km. Dave jumped on his MTB and cruised along a few more K's . 
We had never MTB in Kimberley before, but cross country and Alpine skiied for sure so decided on someones recommendations to ride around the mountain which is a set of trails that circumnavigate around the Alpine ski area. Pat just getting warmed up as she peddals by one of the ski lift chairs.

The whole ride is 20km with lots of climbing and descending. The day is very warm, with the mountain views spectacular. Still plenty of snow in the high country.
Super Dave wearing some armor on this hot day trying to protect some fractured ribs that are in the process of healing. A nice sunny spot for a lunch break.
Pat walking her bike over a particular boney section of the trail. We continue on to Bora Bora, Upper Thunder Turkey, Army Road, Richardsons and then all the way back to trailhead on Magic Line. A long but fun day.

 Off to Fernie, another town we have not riddin in or hiked. Drive into Fernie Mountain PP and grab a campsite. Lots of young gnarly Dudes and Dudettes. Very popular with the young active crowd as this is a mountain community. Lots of MTB.

Drive up to Island Lake and start a hike called Heiko's which take you up to a saddle that is close to Mount Fernie and the 3 Sisters.

                      Still a bit of snow left in the high country in the shaddier areas of the forests.                                                 

After hiking over a pass from Island Lake, we hike down into the valley and then traverse the slopes until we get to the pass which is in the top right.
These are some of the outstanding views of the surrounding mountains as we hike to the pass near 3 Sisters.
                 Looking back on the ridge which we traversed after coming up from Island Lake.  
                 Looking out towards the 3 sisters and the trail that leads to Fernie down in the valley.
Heading back to Island Lake which is somewhere below the mountain range in the background.


Today's ride will be on the Lazy Lizard trail which starts at the Mt Fernie PP campsite and ends at Island Lake. Most bikers shuttle up to the lake and ride down. Even though it is not technical, there is a fair bit of elevation gain. We do the round trip. Very nice scenery.
This is the mountain range that you ride beside during the climb up on the Lazy Lizard.
                                             The Island Lake Lodge which is a 4 season resort.

A great blue bird day for MTB on the Lazy Lizard.
How tough is this camping in a trailer with all of the amenities of home. Good food and drink after being out all day hiking.
Pat reading some info on the Big White route at the trailhead by Island Lakes.

On the Big White route starting at Island Lake. Steep climb and then great views across the valley.

The route takes us up in to the mountains in the left background.
We thought today we would start our hike at the Fernie alpine village. There is a chair operating for the downhill MTB but we will hike up to the ridge from the village.
 
Didn't see any hikers on our way up but lots of downhill MTB

Looking down at Fernie from the resort and Mt Fernie in the left background.
Mt Fernie which we were close to sumitting a few days before. Guess we will save that one for another time.
Saw 3 four point deer while hiking up to the ridge. Saw no one after hiking past the second chair that was not operating. 



Such a nice day and to have the whole upper ski area all to ourselves and the deer.
Nice views in the basin above the last chair.
Saw a few hikers who took the bottom chair up and then hiked  to the top of the second chair which is in the photo. Fernie below with the Elk river running through the valley.






Here we are parked at the day parking area of Kokanee Creek PP campground, near Nelson, waiting for a camping spot. We knew it was going to be busy but had to sit in a line for over a hour before finally securing a spot at the Redfish overflow campground across the highway.

Pat crossing a bridge on the Great Northern rail trail after starting from the Svobota TH. We are heading to the Mountain Station bike trails.

We ride down the rail trail until Mountain Station road, Evening Ridge road to Expresso, then down to Badger, Raccoon and then down to the rail trail and Back to TH. As we are intermediate riders at best, there were a few sketchy down features that we found challenging.


A view of Nelson and the bridge that crosses Kootenay Lake from the Great Northern rail trail.



An evening walk around some of the trails joining Redfish and Kokanee Creek campgrounds.This is a bridge over Kokanee Creek. Lots of mosquitoes this year due to the amount of rain in June/early July.
A lot of salmon spawn in this creek which is fed by snow/ice melt high up in the mountains.
After a long, rough drive up to the TH of Kokanee Glacier PP, we start the long day hike climbing up the valley to Kokanee Lake. Mountains basking in the morning sun.
We pass many mountain creeks still flowing strong due to the large amount of winter snow still lingering in the high country.
 
Kokanee Lake fed by glacier water gives it that distictive blue colour. Even though it is July 18th, ice still is present on the lake.

Pat checking out the  competing colours of blue and green in this summer scene. 
This is near the spot where in November, 13th, 1998, Micheal Trudeau, youngest son of Pierre Trudeau, on a ski trip, was swept away by an avalanche pushing him into the lake. His body was never found.
Kaslo Lake taken near the ACC mountain hut.
Lots of snow in the high country even though we are well into July.

Looking down on the ACC hut on the way to Sapphire Lakes.
Dave taking a photo of the frozen lakes and route. 

One of the frozen Sapphire Lakes. We were surprised how much snow there was.

Snow had consoladated so there was not a lot of post holeing. Lots of red algie on the receeding snow.

Pat getting photos of the contrasts between rock and snow
Saw no one until we were almost back to the ACC hut. 
We were supposed to keep going and complete a circle route ending back at the north end of Garland Lake but snow got pretty rotten the longer we were out.
nice view of a creek coming off the higher snowfields flowing into Kokanee Lake
Looking back on the mountains that were in the morning sun many hours before as we make our way back to TH and the long rough drive back to the Redfish campground.
Today, we go exploring the area around Kaslo and further on to the end of the lake. Peddling across a wooden bridge on the way to some MTB and hiking trails.
A view from the bridge over Kaslo river. Mountains in the background are in the Kokanee Glacier PP where we were yesterday.

Riding was mostly blue runs. Beautiful trails following the river before climbing up past the airport and onto more trails that pass through big tree and bushes. 


From Nelson, we drive over to the Dry Gulch PP campground just south of Radium, BC.
From the Dry Gulch CG, we are only an hours drive to the mountains in the Kootenay NP
 
Todays hike starts at the Paint Pots and crosses the Vermilion  river 1/2 km from the TH.
Serious avalanche debris as we make our way up a valley with mountains of the Rockwall in sight.
Nice little set of falls on Tumbling Creek.
Working our way up the Tumbling Creek trail with mountains of the Rockwall route in the background.
Tumbling Creek crashing down some of the rock walls 
Pat is smileing now but this trip, which is usually a 40km, 3 day backpack, will be a challenge towards the end of the day. 
More views of the mountains which make up the border between Alberta and BC.
Tumbling Creek CG. Time for a well earned lunch.
After a long slog out of the camp ground, we break out of the forest and into the alpine on out way to Wolverine Pass.
Looking back to the Rockwall hiking route from a high point on the trail to Helmut Falls. We will pass over 25  backpackers coming from/going to  Helmut Falls this day but no day hikers.
Awesome day to be hiking.
This is why they call it the "Rockwall"
Still lots of lingering snow this year which was close to a record year of snow.
The mountains of Yoho NP come into view as we head over the pass.

These are the Goodsirs which we passed by many years before when on our through hike to Jasper. Instead of following Helmut creek to the Paint Pots, we hiked up over Goodsir  pass and followed the Ottertail fire access road to the Yellowhead highway.
This will be our last climb of the day before dropping down into Helmut Creek.
Nice views looking back from where we have hiked at the highpoint on the pass.
Helmut Falls. We are on a long downhill into the valley where the Helmut Falls campsite is.
Pretty impressive drop. After it seems a long time to get to the campground, we hike another few hours of up and down hiking before getting back to the Paint Pots. Total distance hiked that day ended up over 40km and 5000' elevation gain. Nice that we didn't have to carry heavy backpacks.
Looking down from "the Johnson" MTB trail on aquamarine Toby Creek coming out of the Jumbo Glacier area. When we climbed Mt. Fisher some weeks back, a hiker recommended the Johnson as a good ride.

The TH for the Johnson started at Lillian Lake. Place was packed with families due to the 35C temperatures, playing in the warm lake water. The bike trail that follows the creek canyon was the most scenic and for a blue trail, the most technical.
Views from the MTB trail looking down Toby Creek canyon into the Columbia valley close to Invermere.
Time to leave the Dry Gulch PP and the Invermere area and head to the Lake Louise area. This is the overflow RV parking spot 6 km south of Lake Louise. We have stayed here before when it was very busy. Now with Covid, the large paved lot is almost empty and no shuttles are running to Morraine and Louise Lakes.
We are waiting for totally sunny weather to hike the all day trip into Lake O'Hara so while we wait,we head out every day for some fun. This is Saddleback Mt  trail leading out from the Lake Louise parking area. Pat looking across to the mountains on the east side of hwy.#1.
Lots of rain showers today so Dave jumps on his MTB and Pat straps on the roller skis and we head out on the Banff Legacy Trail, 26km of paved multi use trail between Banff and Canmore. Nice shot of Cascade mt inbetween the rain squalls. Cascade is one of the scrambles we have done a few years back.
The jagged NE side of Mt Rundle.
While Pat roller skiied up to Mt Norquay from the valley, Dave hiked up to the Stoney Mt. lookout trail that starts at the Mt Norquay lodge parking area. This is another view of Cascade.
Views from the Stoney Mt. trail
One more day of good, but not perfect weather, we drive up to the Lake Louise Ski area and park at the TH for Skoki Lodge. We are heading up in the direction of the Half Way Hut.
Looking back are fine views of Mt. Victoria, at the back of Lake Louise.
Pat gazing out at Mt. Temple on the left, Mt. Hungabee in the middle and Mt. LeFroy on the right from a ski area access road.
Today is the day we have been waiting for. It froze overnight but the weather is supposed to be brilliant all day. This is the road into Lake O'Hara. A few years ago, we hiked the road in, did the Alpine route and got a ride back in the bus. There was some smoke in the air, so the photos were not perfect.
This time, the sun will be out all day and no smoke.  
The only kicker is that with the Corona virus wide spread, there are no shuttles so you have to hike in and back (22km) as well as hiking the 14km Alpine Route. Makes for a long day.
We start the day at 8:00 and stop for a food break at the campground. We were passed by a young French girl who was jogging up the road. We saw her at the campground and would not see her until about halfway around the circuit. She obviously went in the opposite direction we did.

Lake O'Hara near the lodge with the All Souls Prospect hiking route in the background. We talked to another couple who was going to hike the whole circuit in a day but after the lake, we never saw them again.
Part way up the Wiwaxy Gap with Lake O'Hara below.
There are a few sketchy exposed rock bands on the way up the first part but not too exciting.
Dave getting in a photo op on one of the rock bands on the way to the Wiwaxy Gap, which is supposed to be the toughest of the 4 section of the "Alpine route". In the background is where the "Yukness Ledges route"angles just below the cliffs heading for the big snow field.
Views of Odaray Mt across the valley.
A fine day for a hike. And no smoke in the air.
Mt Biddle at the end of the ridge. The All Souls Prospect route traverses all of the avalanche paths(snow), below the dark rock ridge ending in the upper far right where dark rock meets brown scree.
Looking out across the lodge to McArthur Pass and eventually, the Rockwall.
Trail up to the Wiwaxy Gap
Looking back down the valley from where we have started this morning from the "Gap"
Wiwaxy Peak
Perfect pass for a dual selfie. Lake Oesa below with Mt Glacier, Ringrose and Hungabee standing guard in the background.





We are probably at the highest we will get at close to 2600m, even higher than All Souls Prospect across the valley.
Looking across the valley towards McArthur Pass. We will be passing through this area in maybe 3 hours as we hike down the steep trail from All Saints Prospect.
Heading down to Oesa Lake traversing steep rock bands
Looking back at Wiwaxy Gap and Mt. Wiwaxy. Pretty rough trail down to Lake Oesa.
Rubble covering the trail down as we head towards the lake with the snow covered headwall between Mt. Lefroy and Glacier in the background.
Lake Oesa with the water coloured a stunning blue from glacier flour.
Mountains act like huge fences keeping everyone in the Lake O'Hara valley.
Unless you are an experienced climber, no way out here.
Time for lunch. You can just make out the trail on the scree heading up to the Abbot Hut. It was closed for repairs when we were there.
A view across Lake O'Hara of Mt Odaray.
The Yukness Ledges Alpine route traverses a lot of rock bands above and below.
Looking back at the way we have come. Abbot Hut is up one of those steep valleys to your left.
Lake Louise is over the mountains in the background and to your left.
After traversing some rough rock and steep cliffs we find ourselves in a valley with a number of small lakes. Opabin pass is staight ahead over the small glacier. Opabin Lake is to the lower right.
Looking across the valley at the route we took to access the Wiwaxy Gap, which are across the steep rocky bands below the east Wiwaxy Mt.
Looking over at the Mt Odaray group in the background and the All Souls Prospect route which roughly follows the snow below the dark cliffs ending where the dark rock meets the lighter brown scree in the upper left of the photo.
Fine views above Lake O'Hara.
Looking directly over to the Wiwaxy Gap and the route we hiked which is on the steep rock below East Wiwaxy Mt. and below Mount Huber which is on the right.
Pat scrambling over large boulders as she makes her way up to the All Souls Prospect trail.
Looking back at Opabin Pass. Traversing the steep snow was a bit difficult due to hard, icy conditions.
Mt. Odaray.

Not too many more snow fields to cross.

Looking across at Mt Huber and Victoria and Lefroy from All Saints Prospect viewpoint.
Opabin Pass with Wenkchemna Peak in the background.
Cathedral Mt. across the valley.  We came  up the valley to the right, which follows Cateract Brook.




Around to the left is McArthur Lake and Pass. We will soon have to drop down steeply to the valley  in the bottom of the photo.
One never gets tired of gazing at these extremely rugged Rockies.
Last look before heading back down to Lake O'Hara, finishing the Alpine circuit and then 11km back along the gravel road to TH. After passing a few hikers at Wiwaxy Gap and a family at Opabin Lake, the only other person we saw on the circuit was the French girl, going counter-clockwise who we found out, was staying in Canmore for a few years of adventure.